How to Grow and Care for Monstera Deliciosa (2024)

Monstera Deliciosa Care

Here are the main care requirements for growing a Monstera deliciosa:

• Requires warmth and humidity; can plant outdoors in USDA zones 10 through 12.
• Prefers partial sun or dappled light.
• Needs acidic or neutral, peat-based, well-draining soil.
• Use a pot with ample drainage holes and water regularly.
• Give balanced fertilizer three to four times per year.
  

Light

This evergreen prefers bright, indirect sunlight between 65°F and 75°F. Too much direct light in warmer months may burn the foliage. Still, set indoor plants outside at least once a year in direct sunlight to encourage lush growth.

Outdoors, the Swiss cheese plant can grow in the full shade of deep woodlands and semi-shade of light forests.

Soil

Monstera needs an evenly moist but well-draining potting soil when grown in a container, ideally mixed with soil amendments like perlite and shredded bark to help with aeration and improve drainage. A mix of three parts indoor houseplant soil, two parts shredded part, and one part perlite should work well.

Grown in the grown in its native environment, monstera deliciosa likes lightly sandy, medium loamy, and heavy clay soils with acid or neutral pH.

Water

Water your monstera once the first few inches of soil are dry. Stick your finger in to test the soil, then water slowly and deeply until water runs out of the drainage hole at the bottom. The soil should not be moist all the time; it should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Limp and curling leaves are a common sign your monstera needs water.

During the growing season, a monstera in bright, indirect light might need watering once a week. In winter months, it may only need watering every few weeks.

Temperature and Humidity

Monstera deliciosa grows best in temperatures between 65°F and 85°F. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50°F and up to 90°F but will stop growing at these extremes. It prefers high humidity, about 60%. To increase humidity indoors, add a humidifier.

Fertilizer

Choose a balanced liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer to feed the plant every few weeks during the growing season. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of the fertilizer in a gallon of water. Use the diluted fertilizer in place of regular watering. Pour the mixture into the soil until it begins to flow out of the drainage holes. Throw out the excess diluted fertilizer because the plant has taken what it needs and cannot use the extra that it drains off.

Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more!

Types of Monstera Plants

Native to rainforests of Central America, there are nearly 50 species in theMonstera genus, with several species, cultivars, and variegated varieties. Variegated foliage and plants with exaggerated fenestrations (holes and splits) are pricier to buy since they're harder to propagate and grow slower than others. Here are a few of the most common, closely-related Monstera plants:

• Monstera albo (Monstera deliciosa 'Albo Borsigiana') is a rare (and expensive) variegated Monstera deliciosa subspecies with white, speckled coloring.
• Monstera obliqua is one of the rarest and most pricey of the Monstera plants, with large, delicate holes and splits.
• Monstera acacoyaguensis has mature leaves that don't split—instead, they perforate.
• Monstera dubia is also known as "shingle plant" and is a vining plant with medium green leaves with grey-green accents.
• Monstera adansonii, also called Swiss cheese plant, has larger leaves than M. acuminata, with larger holes and lighter green coloration.
  
• Monstera deliciosa 'Peru' has dark green tear-drop shaped ovate leaves with an attractive puckered texture.
• Monstera deliciosa 'Thai Constellation' is a rare cultivar that is similar is size and shape to the Swiss cheese plant but features large creamy white patches and speckles.

Pruning

Trim aerial roots if they get too unruly for the space, though tucking them back into the pot is preferred. Unlike some other houseplants, their roots do not damage surfaces. Stems and leaves respond well to trimming and can be used for propagation.

Propagating Monstera Deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa can be easily propagated by stem cuttings from pruning. However, the most popular method of propagating Monstera deliciosa is air layering. Here are the steps for both methods:

Propagation With Stem Cuttings

1. Using a clean, sharp pruning shear, cut off a stem that includes a node (a little bump where the roots will emerge), an aerial root, and at least two leaves.
2. Put the cutting in a glass of water. Change the water every three to five days, and if possible, use filtered water or rainwater over tap water.
3. You will see a clump of roots growing in a couple of months. At that point, you can put your new plant in a pot with fresh soil and keep it moist as it establishes itself in its new home.
   

Propagation with Air Layering

The mother plant may not look attractive for a while, but getting a healthy new plant is worth it. Air layering is a preferred low-risk method because you're not cutting the mother plant until the baby is ready to be put in a pot with new roots. You'll need floral or sphagnum moss, a plastic bag or wrap, and twist ties for this method.

1. Find a stem with a couple of nodes (where the roots will grow). Or, find a leaf growing out of a stem with a short aerial root below it.
2. Cut a small notch about 1/3 of the stem's width below that root.
3. Wrap a 1-inch layer of sphagnum moss around where the leaf joins the stem.
4. Spray the moss with water to increase moisture, and wrap it in plastic. Use twist ties to secure it (it may look a little messy, which is okay).
5. Ensure the moss can remain moist until the roots develop.
6. When roots develop in a few months, you can cut (with a clean, sharp tool) the stem below the roots and establish the young plant, with its roots, in a fresh pot of soil.

Potting and Repotting Monstera Deliciosa

The monstera deliciosa will likely outgrow its pot every two years or so. Transplant into a pot a few inches wider and deeper to accommodate growth. This plant prefers well-draining porous pots, such as terra-cotta or ceramic, because they like airflow and drainage; however, any material pot with drainage holes will do. Pot the plant using these simple steps:

1. Fill the bottom third of a pot with peaty potting soil.
2. Establish a stake gently for the stem to climb on.
3. Set the roots into the container. Fill with soil around the roots.
4. Firmly surround the stake with soil and use plant ties to attach the stem to the stake.

Common Pests

Wiping dust or debris off leaves with a damp sponge or paper towel will keep the plant clean and deter pests. However, common pests that may invade the plant include sap-sucking mealybugs, aphids (plant lice), tiny cigar-shaped thrips, scale insects, and spider mites. If any are found on the foliage, spray the plant with a direct water stream. Leaves can also be washed with insecticidal soap.

Common Pests and Diseases

There a few minor insect pests that may appear on your monstera, including spider mites, mealybugs, and fruit flies. For spider mites, clean the leaves with a soft cloth with neem oil, which repels these pests. For mealybugs, use a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol and apply the tip to each bug, then remove by wiping away as you go. The best way to deal with fruit flies is to use a vinegar trap.

The three disease problems that occur most frequently with monstera are root rot, which is caused by overwatering or poor drainage, or fungal diseases such as powdery mildew or leaf spot. Improving air circulation around the plant can help to prevent powdery mildew and leaf spot. Humidity can also cause powdery mildew, so if you notice this happening, trim off the affected leaves, then move the plant to a drier spot or try lowering the humidity levels in the room to see if this helps improve things.

Common Problems of Monstera Deliciosa

Though it's a somewhat easy-going houseplant, Monstera deliciosa can cause a few headaches. Figure out the cause of your sickly plant and how it can bounce back. Review these common symptoms of failing health.

Browning Lefa Tips

If the tips of the leaves are turning brown, that usually means the soil could be dry, or you need to consistently water the plant on a schedule to keep it moist. Remove the affected leaves.

If there's a yellow halo around the brown spots or tips, that means your plant has contracted a fungus. Remove the affected leaves and let the plant dry out before watering. The fungus likely got there because of overwatering or keeping the plant in overly wet soil for too long.

Yellow Leaves or Light Brown Spots

Yellowing leaves are an indication of dry soil. The oldest leaves on the plant will turn yellow first. Remove the affected leaves. If you notice dry, crispy spots on the leaves, check the soil; if it's bone dry, give it a good watering.

Wilting, Curling, or Drooping Leaves

If you see wilting leaves, it's likely a watering issue. The plant is either overwatered or underwatered. It's underwatered if the first few inches of surface soil are dry. Also, curling is a sign of low humidity; place the plant near a humidifier and move it away from air conditioning or heat vents.

Try taking the plant out of the pot to evaluate the roots. If it's overwatered, the plant could be suffering from root rot. Clean the roots, prune off mushy parts, and repot in new soil.

Black Spots on Leaves